IF YOU´VE EVER DREAMED OF SMOTHERING YOURSELF IN RIPE, LUSH FRUIT WITH THOUSANDS OF OTHER LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE, NOW´S YOUR CHANCE. THE POPULATION OF THE LITTLE SPANISH TOWN OF BUÑOL EXPANDS THREEFOLD FOR THE BATTLE TO END ALL BATTLES, LA TOMATINA

Spain´s many fiestas are renowned for being loud and crazy affairs, from bull running to the Valencia fallas, where enormous papier-mache statues are set on fire. However La Tomatina has to go down as one of the most surreal.

How the idea came about for an annual event where thousands of people throw tons upon tons of overripe red tomatoes at one another is baffling. You can imagine the scenario with a couple of guys in a bar, sipping a cana and wondering how they can put their town on the map, encourage tourism and boost the local economy. “I know, let´s ship in shed-loads of tomatoes and start a fight!”

In reality, no-one is quite sure how it happened. It might have been a food fight among friends, a protest against a bad musician (if so, it´s a good job there weren´t any rotten eggs around) or the spontaneous aftermath of a lorry spill.

But for the past 60 years (except when Franco banned the fiesta for being non-religious) the fiesta has taken place, attracting more visitors with a record 40,000-plus taking part last year.

The festival takes place on the last Wednesday in August in Bunol, close to Valencia. In reality, the fiesta lasts all week with music, street parades, dancing and fireworks. On the eve of the tomato battle, a giant paella cooking contest is held, no doubt to provide energy for what lies ahead.

This year, on Wednesday August 27, lorries will deliver more than 100 tons of overripe tomatoes to be thrown in the street. A cannon is fired to signal that the fun can begin in the centre of town.

Now it´s every man for himself. Basically the idea is to chuck as many tomatoes as possible at your fellow participants, ending up with everyone covered in red gunge from head to toe.

There are a few safety rules – the fruits must be squished before being thrown, bottles are banned and ripping someone´s clothes is also frowned upon.

Many people then head for the river Bunol to wash themselves down while fire engines spray down the streets.

Bunol is about 40 kilometres inland from Valencia. At this time of year, the inland villages could be a trifle hot so it is best to stay on the nearby coast. There are plenty of resorts but two which are close enough to Valencia while offering a taste of culture along with the beach life are Benicassim, north of the city, and Gandia to the south.

Music and monks

Benicassim is famous throughout Europe for the FIB festival held every July – it´s like Glastonbury on the beach, in the sunshine, minus the mud but with plenty of golden sand. It is also a favourite holiday retreat for Madrid executives looking to escape from the heat of the capital city for the summer. Benicàssim is a traditional holiday centre, thanks to its six kilometres of sandy beaches, and its high mountains, which protect the town from the wind, and are a part of the Desert de Las Palmas and Sierra de Santa Agueda, where we find the Bartolo peak (729 m). This spiritual retreat, founded by the Carmelites, nowadays offers interesting routes to cover by foot, or bicycle. The old Camelites distillery, which used aromatic herbs to make their liqueurs, was eventually moved to the town centre. You can take a guided tour followed by a taste of the various wines and liqueurs on offer.

Borgias and beaches

The main commercial town of Gandia is about 65kms south of Valencia and a few kilometres inland. However it is the Playa de Gandia which is the star here, as it is a beautiful and very Spanish resort. The long, broad, sandy beach is lined with palm trees and has, perhaps, the finest promenade on the Costa Blanca. It also has an impressive fishing fleet and a large marina.

Many Madrilenos and Spaniards from the north have holiday homes here but it is also a popular resort with the French. As such it has a very cosmopolitan feel. The town comes to life at the weekend and boasts a good nightlife.

Gandia was home to the infamous Borja (or Borgia) family remembered for their corrupt rule of the Papacy during the Renaissance. Visit the Ducal Palace, a magnificent building of major historical interest. The home of the Duque Francisco de Borja dates from the 15^th century and contains an impressive collection of his belongings.

Feast on fideua, a noodle based variety of paella. Rumour has it that the Gandians become fed up with eating paella all the time that they decided to see what it was like with noodles instead of rice. It has now become a renowned local dish, with as many varieties as the aforementioned paella.   

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